Let's talk about someone else for a change

My first assignment (other than having to read 60 pages by Tuesday in the book that I can't purchase until Monday) for my food writing class is to review an article. Seems pretty simple, and, well, it is. I'm rather a fan of Anthony Bourdain and also conveniently have his book The Nasty Bits, a collection of his writings. I'm not one to make life unnecessarily hard on myself, so I re-read a few of the pieces and picked one to do my assignment on.

I'd put up the original article, but I don't really feel like getting sued. And, I can't seem to find a link to an online version. Short version, it's about Bourdain's distaste for a lot of the classic fine dining service styles, the strict dance and etiquette performed by the service staff, and the joy of new restaurants that ignore it all and still bring you the best food possible.



I hate ties. Not so much ties in particular, but more so getting dressed up in general. I’m just not a formal sort of person. So you might say that there was a bit of personal significance for me when I read Anthony Bourdain’s article Counter Culture, which talks about chefs opening new restaurants with a dumbed down dress code.
And beyond the clothes it’s the entire atmosphere that Bourdain talks about, with the pomp and circumstance of fine dining service giving way to a casual air with, as the title suggests, sometimes even diner-style countertop seating.
When it comes to food, it’s about (you guessed it) the food. Yes, good service is nice. I like a bamboo bar top and cool lighting as much as the next guy. But if the best pommes frites you’ve ever eaten are served on a paper plate by a guy in a sweaty baseball cap and a food-stained t-shirt, they’re still the best pommes frites you’ve ever eaten. And after all, all that strict service can get a little stuffy. Bourdain writes in his article about how he had the various attributes and qualities of different bottled waters dutifully explained to him. In the same sitting, after asking for the restroom, he was not only escorted through the restaurant but to inside the stall itself. He was then educated as to how he might operate the commode. I can’t speak for everyone, but I don’t normally invite company into the stall with me. And I’m pretty sure that I can figure out how to use a toilet on my own. All in all, the idea of keeping the great food but dropping some of the over-the-top service is plus in my book.
Of course, it’s not just my opinion that matters. So what makes these words ring true in more ears than just my own? It’s because the experience is about sharing good food with good friends, not being afraid to sneeze in the wrong direction. Relaxing, talking, laughing, and being proud that at the end of the night you made it without actually busting the button off of your pants.
Bourdain is known for his up front, no-holds-barred writing. He doesn’t sugarcoat things, he doesn’t try to hide anything in the back room. In fact, he’s more likely to bust down the door and point out each and every gritty grimy little speck. And in this case, despite being a seasoned chef, having served in multi-star restaurants, he’s here to say that he could care less about the difference between Dasani and Evian. So ditch the napkin service, forget about the restroom tour guide, grab some friends, and bring on that plate of frites because that’s what we came for.